Jennifer and Ben decided to spend their Saturday visiting the places and neighborhoods described so “colorfully” by Ms. Simon and see what might still be the same. They started their tour in Chinatown, with no success. “Chinatown apparently had a lot of Jewish stores back then,” remarked Ben. But nothing was left. They were delighted when they arrived at 179 E. Houston to discover that the neon sign glowed the same name they saw in the book, “Russ & Daughters.” It was the first place on their tour that was still around forty years later.

After sharing a bagel topped with cream cheese and Gaspe Nova, here they are reading the Russ & Daughters passage from the book:

Here’s a transcription if you don’t have time for the clip:

“The Olympus of sturgeon, Nova Scotia salmon and dried fruits for many New Yorkers and for former New Yorkers who travel considerable distances to refresh themselves with the local nectar is Russ & Daughters (179 E. Houston St; closed Tuesday). The late Mr. Russ had attractive, lively daughters who married attractive, lively men. They work in the store at various times and together on busy Sundays, friendly, bright people whose voices bubble up a foam of warm greetings, paens to sturgeon, sonnets to lox, and kind thanks. The friendliness and enthusiasm take some of the sting out of the prices, although theirs are comparatively low in a generally fantastic scale, and as for quality– the experts grow soft-eyed and moist-mouthed when they describe the incomparable charms, first of the Russ fish, and then, of the Russ women.”

-New York Places and Pleasures by Kate Simon. Harper & Row, 1971

I think I got as much a kick out of meeting Jennifer and Ben as they got out of discovering the store and meeting an actual Russ. Though we’re no longer closed on Tuesdays, and the Russ daughters and their lively husbands have been followed by great-granddaughters and great-grandsons, it’s nice to think that the same passage could have been written today.

- Niki Russ Federman

“Is everything ok?” asked the passerby at the sight of shuttered gates and lights off at Russ & Daughters this morning, his voice expressing mild panic as if he had just stumbled upon an unfortunate accident or was shaking someone out of a bad dream.  While we were touched by the outpouring of concern- he was actually not the first, but more like the sixth, person to wonder- we were happy to explain that today the shop was closed for our annual company picnic; we were headed to the country.

We ate, we swam, and had our annual softball match. Amongst other deliciousness,  we feasted on a fabulous summer pasta salad of Russ & Daughters bottarga, tomato, shitake and shimeji mushrooms, prepared by our very own David Wolfe. You can ask him how to make it next time you’re in, now that we’re back in the shop and everything is back to normal.

- Niki Russ Federman

The Russ & Daughters Mini Yum Kippered sandwich is featured in New York Magazine’s annual “Underground Gourmet guide to all that is brand spanking new and good to eat,” the “2010 Eat Cheap Issue” by Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld. The article shows the small sandwich in great company, with “mini” dishes from Momofuku Milk Bar, First Prize Pies, Luke’s Lobster, and other local favorites.

Minisize Me
By Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

“All over town, less is suddenly more. Here’s where to find big flavors for small change.
MINI YUM KIPPERED
Russ & Daughters
Everyone knows mini-bagels are best - crustier, better balanced - especially when stuffed with baked salmon and cream cheese.”

- Jen Snow

Check out some more photos from the Russ & Daughters Herring Pairing and a ShootBooth slideshow if you want a demonstration of how to eat the Holland Herring in a most traditional manner.

ShootBooth @ The Herring Pairing from jacob krupnick on Vimeo.

Shootbooth writes: In celebration of the New Catch Holland Herring (a fish with a most ornate pedigree), Russ & Daughters invited ShootBooth to make portraits at their annual Herring Pairing.

A surprising number of guests demonstrated the audacious, shirt-staining art of herring consumption for the camera. Bravo, intrepid diners.

This is arguably our wildest event. To all who were present: thanks for your animation and good nature.

Do you have a longer lunch break on this beautiful day? No work today at all? Stop by for a sandwich. Someone, for example, is about to eat this Super Heebster.

(If you don’t have time to visit for lunch, maybe we’ll see you later. Russ & Daughters is open tonight until 8:00 p.m.)

- Jen Snow

In this Elle Magazine cover story by Andrew Goldman, actress Keira Knightly talks about making movies in New York and how much she misses the “amazing” Russ & Daughters now that she’s gone:

“So, a modest proposal: Knightley told me she’d developed a love of New York while filming Last Night, that she still thinks about the bagels and lox she’d get at Russ and Daughters, the Lower East Side smoked fish emporium she deems ‘amazing.’ So, Keira, consider this a formal invitation to move to New York, a town where Brits can easily locate home comforts such as Marmite, HP Sauce, and even warm beer. New Yorkers won’t accost you; they’ll pretend to not even know who you are.”

For a full version of this article, visit Elle.com.

The details of this amazing dish, prepared by Wylie Dufresne and Jon Bignelli:

Smoked New Catch Holland herring, nasturtium gazpacho, cucumber, hazelnut

Soup base made with nasturtium flowers, breadcrumbs, vegetable stock (white grape juice, shallots, garlic, hazelnut oil, and a little butter).

Herring has been lightly cured, smoked and then frozen using liquid nitrogen.  The frozen herring is ground to a powder in a blender.

Garnish:  cucumber dressed in hazelnut oil, dried nasturtium flowers, fresh nasturtium leaves, and hazelnut oil.

Photo of Jon Bignelli by Belathée Photography

- Jen Snow

]]> http://blog.russanddaughters.com/2010/06/18/wylie-dufresne-jon-bignelli-and-jeffrey-steingarten-at-the-russ-daughters-herring-pairing/feed/ http://blog.russanddaughters.com/2010/06/17/russ-daughters-herring-pairing-photos-and-more/ http://blog.russanddaughters.com/2010/06/17/russ-daughters-herring-pairing-photos-and-more/#comments Thu, 17 Jun 2010 18:35:50 +0000 LoxPopuli http://blog.russanddaughters.com/?p=1631

New Catch Holland Herring

All reports indicate that the Russ & Daughters Herring Pairing with Wylie Dufresne and John Zorn at Astor Center was a great success! Photos, anecdotes, and a ShootBooth slideshow coming soon!

Curried Herring with Medjool Dates & Roasted Cashews

Jon Bignelli: wd~50 Chef de Cuisine

John Zorn performs with the Aleph Trio

Event photographs: Belathée Photography

Photo booth portraits: ShootBooth

- Jen Snow

2010’s New Catch Holland Herring season starts today. Join us for the traditional first taste of the New Catch - Hollandse Nieuwe - at the Russ & Daughters counter from 8:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. New Catch Holland Herring can be purchased at Russ & Daughters individually (two fillets attached at the tail) or in packs of ten. $4.49 per herring (two fillets attached at the tail) or $39.95 for a pack of ten herring.

For those who want to savor the New Catch Holland Herring at home or outside of New York City, the herring can be ordered in the shop, over the phone (212.475.4880), or on our website (www.russanddaughters.com). Russ & Daughters delivers the New Catch Holland Herring by courier in New York City and ships them nationwide.

The New Catch Holland Herring will be available at Russ & Daughters for the duration of their prized, yet limited, season.