“Lost, Then Found: New York Classics”
by Mimi Sheraton
New York Times Dining section
Author Mimi Sheraton writes of her “search for true New York classics,” and praises the mini bagels at Russ & Daughters.
“BAGELS: I remember them well. Say, about three and a half inches across with a good wide center hole; a crisp, shiny, golden crust; and chewy, dense, gray interiors that turned to stone if not eaten within three hours of being baked. (A few words about the hole: It is essential first because it ensures a crisp crust at the center, and because the cream cheese and smoked salmon, when properly laid across that empty expanse, afford a luscious mouthful uncompromised by bread.) Their like will not come this way again, given shortages of skilled workers and the modern taste for softness and eternal shelf life, plus the need for a gigantic size to justify a retail price that covers the high cost of labor. Mini-bagels (plain only, please) are the best defense. Fortunately, there are quite delicious mini-bagels at Russ & Daughters on the Lower East Side…“